We’d just come back from the Snæfellsnes peninsula after a day out at sea watching orcas and humpbacks, when we agreed that it was finally time to hit one of Iceland’s biggest tourist traps. If you visit any Top 10 things to do in Iceland list on the entire internet, they’ll either mention the Blue Lagoon, or the Sky Lagoon.
In my 28 years of living on this planet, I haven’t once had a professional massage. That’s what I had in mind when I added Go to a Spa to ✓ Project Bucket List, however as I drove around, way back in December 2023 thinking on ideas, I passed by Eden Hall Day Spa, near Newark. Amazed by the beauty of the building, I checked it out online, and realised that, ya know what? I don’t need a massage to feel relaxed, a couple of hours at a spa will do me just fine.
So, of all the spas in the world, why not go for one of the most famous? Out of the two, we opted for the Sky Lagoon. The decision was made based on a few online discussions, and the fact that it was pretty close to Reykjavik, just a 15 minute drive. The Sky Lagoon was described as quieter, and the ritual, which I’ll get onto in a second, seemed like a more unique experience.
And so, an introduction. Reader, meet Sky Lagoon. Sky Lagoon is a luxury geothermal spa, with an oceanfront infinity pool. It’s got this really neat seven step spa ritual, and the water itself is around 38-40C, really warm! Sky Lagoon, meet Reader. Reader is a pretty cool individual, but they have a bad habit of eating random things off the ground. That being said, I admire their tendency to shapeshift into 3 concentric shapes in the middle of the night. You guys should hang out.
When you arrive at Sky Lagoon, you’ll start the Iceland spa ritual known as The Skjól Ritual. I want to strike a little deal with you, whenever you read an Icelandic word, or the word ritual, I want you to gently hit that small ritualistic gong that you brought along. Oh, you didn’t bring along a gong?
Ah, ok.
No, it’s fine.
No I said it’s fine.
The Skjól Ritual
“”Skjól” (Sk-yo-l) meaning shelter, symbolises the essence of our Icelandic spirit – a haven from the hustle, a warm embrace amidst the cold. It’s a journey back to our bathing culture roots, to the uniqueness of our heritage and the warmth of our community.”
Laaug (l-öi-g) – The Lagoon
As your journey begins at Laug, you’re immersed in the tranquil embrace of our geothermally heated waters.
All I’m saying is that it would’ve made for really good reading if you would’ve hit the gong right now.
Yeah no, it’s too late now.
No, I don’t want to talk about the gong any more.
The first thing you do when you get in the warm water of the Lagoon is say “oh wow, it’s warm!”. The night before, it had reached -9C outside our little campervan, so to be submerged in 38C water felt amazing. Already, before even starting any of the ritual, this water felt like an extension of my own blood.
The amount of steam rising up from the water made it very difficult to see in the cool air. Looking towards the sun was near impossible, as it was just a large splotch of white. It all added to a dreamy, sleepy feeling throughout the lagoon.
Around us, people from different nationalities lazily chat and stretch out, leaning gently on the rocks. Influencers saunter around, their partners taking photos as they look over their shoulders towards the camera. We scoff as I hold up my GoPro, organically pointed towards us. At least we’re living entirely in the moment. We’re not vain. I suck my belly in for each photo we take.
Kymberley and I went over to get a drink, and officially cheers our engagement! We relax a little, squint into the sun, and rest against the edge of the infinity pool, looking northwest out to Reykjavik. I love it here. I’m so relaxed already, and everybody seems friendly and happy.
Kuldi (kh-ul-dih) – Cold Plunge
The cold awakens every sense, serving as a powerful reminder of the endurance woven into Iceland’s rich tapestry of history.
On the south side of the Lagoon, there’s a little hut. Inside this hut is the bulk of the ritual, and just outside it, there’s a separate little round pool. This pool constitutes the cold plunge. You’re supposed to get into the pool, and hold still there for a short period. It awakens every sense of your being, preparing you for the rest of the ritual. The pool temperature itself is a frankly upsetting number, 5C, or 41F.
In my experience, it was like your entire body lights on fire, except it’s not fire, it’s the exact opposite of fire, but somehow equally as alarming. Fight or flight response kicked in for me, and rather than punch a poor Icelandic lady in the ear, I submerged up to my neck and leapt out of the pool onto the side, stairs be damned.
Kymberley, on the other hand, seemed to enjoy it, taking a moment to breath in and spread her arms out, she smiled as I looked back at her in awe. This would not be the last time that the Ritual would show that Kymberley is better than I am.
Ylur (il-urr) – Sauna
Find tranquillity in the quiet zone that offers heat and panoramic views connecting you with the vast ocean that surrounds the island.
After coming out of the freezing cold plunge, we enter the hut, and inside are greeted with a sauna. I’ve never really been in a sauna before, so really I’m just expecting a hot room. Instead, we’re presented with one of the most calming, beautiful views I’ve ever seen. The sea stretches out before us in a massive window, and at our feet, just a few metres away are hot coals, occasionally puffing deep, floral scented steam into the room.
The room is deathly quiet, nobody is making a sound. It feels like a place of worship. I feel my skin split open and my pores erupt as the warm. humid air embraces me. Outside the window, two great cormorants dive in and out of the water for fish. This feels like a deeply spiritual experience, and the people surrounding me all seem to be lost in their own space.
We take some time to stop here, and I start to notice the hot air permeating my lungs. It’s not that it’s difficult to breath, but something about the feeling makes me take a deep breath, and suddenly, I’m choking. This room is so relaxing and everybody is so quiet and in the zone, that I do everything in my power to swallow.
Panic.
Remember during covid how you’d be in public and you’d accidentally swallow your own spit and get a coughing fit in the queue at a Wilko’s? Well, the exact same thing happened, with the exact same amount of social pressure. We ducked out, thankfully, and I spluttered my way into the next section.
Súld (s-oo-lt) – Cold Mist
Feel the touch of Icelandic winds and the crisp, invigorating air in Suld, a rejuvenating mist that whispers stories of resilience.
We enter the next room and the temperature plummets. We’re in the cold mist, a room with a beautiful ceiling, a suspended boulder staring down at us as cold water spritzes through the air onto our skin. As I first walk into the mist, the contrast between the sauna and this cool water is incredible.
In the words of the Lagoon staff “a revitalizing mist that whispers stories of resilience“, informs me that I have not a single ounce of resilience inside me. And also, the word whisper is silly too, because when I walked into the room, I yelped.
Whisper? Really??
Kymberley is, of course, enjoying it right from the get go, her arms cast wide again as she takes in the experience.
After a few moments, my body grows accustomed to the mist, and I begin to enjoy it. It actually reminds me of spring storms in England. I will admit, during night times when it’s stormed, I have stood outside shirtless and appreciated the rain on my skin. Now if you’re imagining me in some dark, sexy way, stood outdoors naked in the rain, I just want to throw the proverbial wet bucket at you and insist you look at the picture of when I first walked in.
Mýkt (me-gt) – Sky Scrub
A signature scrub beside a flowing stream, Mykt carries the essence of Icelandic saltwater, nurturing your skin with the purity of our seas.
We finish up in the mist, and head into the next room, where a table full of bowls (That I definitely did want to steal), are laid out. Inside them are salt, emollients, and oil made of almond and sesame seed. Our skin is primed and ready, pores wide open and clean, so we scrub ourselves with the exfoliating scrub. Nearby, a little stream runs through the room, it’s remarkably relaxing and reminds me stylistically of bonsai trees.
I’m going to spare you the experience of watching a long drawn out gif of me smearing white almond paste all over my body. First, because if I ever start an OnlyFans account, I should be charging for that shit. Second, because I haven’t lost all that weight yet, so my body confidence can stretch as far as “shoulder up” photos.
That being said, after the cold plunge, the sauna and the mist room, the experience of rubbing your skin feels amazing, and after a few moments listening to the relaxing sounds of the water trickling around us, we head into the penultimate stage of the ritual.
Gufa (gu-va) – Steam
Let the warmth wrap around you, as if immersed in the healing steam that rises from our geothermal heart.
We step into the steam room, and everything is different. It’s dark, and I can barely see in front of me. People lounge around me, and it reminds me ever so slightly of an opium den. It’s hot in here, and I start to sweat immediately. My skin starts to absorb the scrub, and relax after the beautiful torture it’s just experienced.
To my left, a woman is sat meditating, and to my right, a man is lay flat on his back, rubbing his chest. I start sweating on top of my sweat, and I suddenly remember summers as a kid, doing gardening work back in Spain in 40C heat and feeling just utterly drenched in sweat. But this feels good. This feels liberating. My skin has never felt this good before, and I’ve never felt this good for sweating, not even in the sauna room.
Something has changed, suddenly I’m welcoming every sensation. It’s like when a mechanical whirring suddenly stops and you realise how loud the thing was, and how quiet it is now, but instead of sound – it’s discomfort. I feel elevated. I look around me and Kymberley is lay flat on the bench, smiling.
This is amazing.
Saft (sa-ft) – Elixir
Savour the essence of “Krækiber”, the crowberries that dot our lava fields, a healthful shot that embodies the spirit of our land.
We step out of the steam room with smiles on our faces, and have a quick shower, before being given a crowberry energy shot, sweet with syrup and warm with ginger. It’s a beautiful flavour, and after taking a moment to enjoy it, we both smack our lips and head back outside, into the lagoon.
Laaug (l-öi-g) – The Lagoon, Again.
You know how at the start of this article I was all showy about how lovely the Lagoon felt? Well after the ritual, we stepped into it and I nearly cried with happiness. Imagine holding your fist tense for years, and suddenly relaxing it one day in a warm bath. You’d feel fantastic, right? Right.
This honestly felt like taking drugs or something, it was a transcendental experience. I’m remembering it now and I feel even calmer. I can’t speak for every spa out there, but I left something behind at the Sky Lagoon, and I don’t properly understand what it was, I’m just happy I left it there.
I have never felt relaxation like this before. We stayed in the water for another hour or so, until our fingers grew wrinkled and we grew hungry. The Sky Lagoon holds a special place in my heart now. It was the end of a fantastic holiday, and it made me aware of a state of being I think I’ll forever treasure.
Just look at how happy and relaxed I look. I look like a cat in front of a fireplace who’s just been told that tax evasion is becoming decriminalised.
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